26
Nov 10

Belize Day Four – Tarpon Hunting

The fourth day of the trip and the third day in Belize saw us heading out with a guide for the first time.  El Pescador had a stable of highly respected guides and this day we would head out with Katchu.  We met him on the dock at 7 and got on the panga, heading south to head through the passage in San Padro.  From there, we’d head north to the tarpon hunting grounds of Savannah Cay.  That is what we thought was happening anyway.

As we made it through the mangrove and shack lined cut to the bay side of Ambergris we surprisingly went south and in a few minutes the guide stopped the boat and, frantically, said “Where’s the permit rod?!”  We weren’t rigged for permit, we thought we were headed to fish tarpon.  Katchu was a big agitated, but we finally got rigged up, I was up first and I made my first cast to a school of marauding permit.  They didn’t eat.  We probably spent an hour chasing nervous water, but the fish were just not in range most of the time.  We called time on Permit and headed North for tarpon.

The Savannah Cay flat is 16 miles long, all water 3-6 feet deep.  The bottom is a mixture of white mud and turtle grass/aquatic plants.  When we got there we saw 4 other boats.  On a busy day, Katchu told us, there can be FORTY boats there.  I really can’t imagine that place with 40 boats… it wouldn’t be good/fun I have a feeling.

Shane... waiting.

We had cloud cover when we got there, but the skies to the west were mostly clear.  It was going to be a good weather day.  I was up on the bow first and I surprise myself by spotting the first two tarpon.  They were a bit too close to the boat.  Casts were made.  Fish were not eating.

Katchu spotted nervous water heading toward the boat.  A school of tarpon was headed for us.  I made the cast.  I stripped.  The fish ate.  I set the hook hard. I raised the rod to clear the line.  Ummm… turns out you don’t clear the line like you are fishing bonefish.  The fly popped out.  I was 0/1 and had botched the job on my first tarpon.

Shane was up next and the first fish to the boat would be coming soon.  It wasn’t a tarpon, however.  Nervous water, moving fast, relieved a school of jacks.  Shane cast in the middle of the school and all hell broke loose.  As he stripped his fly fast one fish left the school to chase the fly.  Water was sheeting it over it’s head as it chased down that fly.  It ate and it started its run.  A Jack is a bull dog.  It doesn’t jump, it doesn’t head shake.  It just picks a direction and goes there.  A few minutes later and Shane landed a Jack that ran about 15 pounds or so.

A nice jack, first fish of the day

I was up.  Tarpon fishing is long stretches of inactivity, punctuated by frantic moments.  I stood there for a while, maybe an hour, without a fish to cast to.  Then… nervous water, a school of tarpon coming towards us.  I made the cast, but my strip was too fast and the fish turned away.  Shane was up again.

Soon, we saw a single tarpon.  Shane made the cast and even I saw the fish turn, see the fly and just go up to it and open its massive mouth and eat the fly.  Shane did everything right and after a few good jumps the fish was in.

Fish On!

That's what we were after

A cool animal

I was back on deck.  We went to the north side of Savannah Cay, but the wind had churned up the water and it was too hard to see the fish.  We moved back to where we had started.  Most of the other boats had left at this point and there was just one other boat, also from El Pescador, left on the 16 mile long flat.

As I was on the deck, Katchu again spotted nervous water.  We weren’t sure if they were jacks or tarpon, but I was going to cast at them regardless. “As long as you can, get as much line as you can out and cast as far as you can!” Katchu barked.  I stripped line of and started pounding false casts out to get all that line out.  Just as I was about to lay down the cast I saw the fish.  They were Jacks and they weren’t 80 feet away, they were 20 feet away.  I tried to drop the cast short and it all didn’t go well.  I had way too much slack out and couldn’t get tight to the fly.  The fish moved on.  There were some tense words between Shane and Katchu about the difference between “As much line as you can” and 20 feet.  I think Katchu even said at one point “I can’t believe you fucked up that cast.”  Katchu just wanted it all to happend and he wanted it so bad that if you screw something up, he’s prone to tell you about it.

While we were still having our conversations about exactly how it all went wrong the school of jacks reappeared. I made the cast and the school went insane.  The school of fish balled up in a feeding frenzy.  I couldn’t see into the school, as the chaos had churned up the bottom.  I just kept stripping, felt weight and set the hook.  The jack just took off.  I stood up there on the deck watching the line just rip out. The run lasted maybe 60 solid seconds, taking about 200 yards of line out.  If ever there was a workout for a reel, this has to be it.  The Nautilus NV 10-11 did the job very, very well.  The Sage Xi3 10 weight we bent at the cork on this fish. Jacks are just amazingly strong and more fun than is reasonable.

And it is off to the races.

Nautilus... good job.

Damn nice fish.

The Jack probably went 25 pounds, making it my largest fish ever.

There were no more tarpon.  There were no more jacks.  We were done for the day.  Even though I didn’t get a tarpon, it still felt like a good day.  He had lots of fish to cast to.  I had hooked my first tarpon.  I had caught my largest fish ever.  It had been fun.  I had learned a lot.

The next day was going to be about production on our last full day in Belize.


25
Nov 10

Belize Day Three – The Lagoon

The weather was set to continue being crappy and that didn’t seem like a good day to go out with a guide, so we decided this would be our DIY day.  El Pescador is on the beach, but in the back, it has a small dock that leads to a lagoon… in the lagoon are bonefish.  Instead of walking the beach, we set out by paddle.  El Pescador has a rough map with some spots marked and we used that as a starting point to get to the fish.

Stormy skies and the red canoe

The first shore we patrolled was devoid of anything resembling a bonefish, so we moved on.  Shane moved further down the beach and I stayed closer.  Twenty minutes on I saw a bonefish cruising out of some flooded mangroves.  I threw a brown gotcha in a #8 and the fish saw it and charged it.  I set, the fish was hooked and it started its run.  I tried to clear the line, but… well… the line still jumped up and wrapped around my hand. I was now 0/1.  Rumor has it that I dropped a couple of f-bombs at this point in the trip, but those reports are unconfirmed.  About 5 minutes later and Shane was hooked up… first fish of the trip was in the books.

The seal breaker.

One more move and my rod was finally bent all the way to conclusion.

Get bent.

Well, isn't (s)he cute?

Turns out what you’ve heard about Belize bonefish is largely true… which is they aren’t very large.  This little guy was about the size we caught.  We did see a few bigger fish and even caught some (mostly Shane), but there are a lot of smaller fish here.  They are still very, very fun and it does present an opportunity to down-size on your rod selection.  You could easily get away with a six and, ya know… maybe even a 5.  That means if you want to get into bonefishing and don’t want to go out and buy a new rod for one trip, you could grab your trout gear and head to Belize.  Just say’n.

Out in the lagoon for the rest of the trip we had a simple rule… before you dip into the cooler for a beer, you have to land a fish.  So, this was a nice beer.

Mmmm... good.

Belikin is the beer of Belize and we drank a fair bit of it… 58 of them according to the bar tab.  Here’s the thing about Belikin… they are a LIE.  The bottle is heavy… very heavy… the weight of each bottle is roughly 95% glass and 5% beer.  They are about 2 ounces each… or 9.6 ounces as it turns out.  You can grab and empty bottle and the weight makes you think it is full… but it isn’t.  That is a tragedy.  When you have a Belikin you are largely holding glass.  Someone said when you buy a Belikin you also buy a weapon… and I can see that.  In my totally imagined feud between Kalik and Belikin, I’m going to raise the Kalik on sheer volume.  Hope that doesn’t offend anyone, but really… a beer should be AT LEAST 12 ounces… AT LEAST.

I only managed a couple of fish that day, Shane had about 7, which was a sign that things were as they should be.  Shane’s a much better angler than I am since he’s a guide on the water about 200 days a year and he has about 350 days of bonefishing under his belt.

It seemed appropriate with it raining that hard... to have a beer.

The rain came and went… and then came again.  Our paddle back to El Pescador was a wet and windy one.  Just as we got to the mangrove chute we’d take to get to the dock Shane was mentioning that this particular environment looked ideal for baby tarpon.  Then I saw one roll.  So, we fished for some very small baby tarpon for a few minutes.  I cast from the canoe while Shane stood in the back of the canoe trying to locate the fish.  I had one eat, but didn’t hook it.

When we got back the light was failing and we were both wetter than seemed possible.  It had been a challenging day, but we had made it work.  The best time to go fishing, after all, isn’t when the weather is perfect.  The best time to go fishing is when you can.

wet, wet, wet

We made the right call and had a fun day under the Belizean clouds.

Small? Sure. Pretty? You bet.

The third day of the trip and the second day in Belize were done.  Dinner was fantastic… Lobster and Chicken Parmesan.   They treat you right at El Pescador.

The next day was going to be with a guide and a trip to the tarpon flats.


24
Nov 10

OK… Belize Report, Day 2

I’m back from Belize now… it was 55 in the house when I got home.  I miss Belize already, but I look forward to seeing my wife and daughter again (which I’ll do on Friday).  I’m going to pick up reporting on the days of the trip, starting with Day 2.

Day 2 started out in Miami and from there on to Belize City and from there to Ambergris and El Pescador.

As we descended into Belize City my heart kind of sank a bit.  There was a lot of rain on the ground and buckets still falling.  The puddle jumper from Belize City to Ambergris was a cool flight, but still the rain was coming down.  Lori-Ann met Shane and I at the dock for the ride to El Pescador.

After we got our room, we got ready to hit the beach in the rain in search of tails.  We found them (the first fish spotted was actually right when we got to El Pescador… right by the dock… crazy). The turtle grass was so thick it was tough to get flies to the fish and we ended our first actual day there without a fish to our name, but at least we had gotten out there and paid some rain soaked dues.

We were scheduled to go out with guide Katchu the next day, but decided to push that off for a day to let the weather settle.  We’d day the canoe out in the lagoon system behind El Pescador for the second day there.

Dinner was great and we met the other anglers and divers staying at the lodge.  Everyone got on well and we were looking forward to the next day, despite a less that totally awesome weather forecast.

Stay Tuned for Day 3.


22
Nov 10

A very, very, very good day in Belize

I didn’t expect it.  But it happened.  Amazing.

Bonefish

Tarpon

Permit

A Grand Slam at El Pescador.

My Grand Slam Pin from El Pescador.


21
Nov 10

Belize Update

I had a potential grand slam today… but… I botched the permit (first thing in the morning), had the tarpon spit the hook and didn’t hook the bonefish.  Somehow, it was still a great day.  My buddy Shane got a nice little Tarpon, around 35 pounds.  I landed my largest fish to date… a Jack that went about 35-40.  Weather was great.  Pics will come once I’m back and have better internet.

El Pescador is fantastic.


20
Nov 10

Belize Update

OK… so, lots to update on Belize… the clouds/rain make the internet a little unreliable right now, so I can’t tell you too much.  Suffice  to say that the reason the internet isn’t working well might impact the fishing.

I am wet.  To my core.

Caught a couple of DIY fish today (Shane caught 7) and had a baby tarpon grab… tomorrow and the next day we have a guide.  Looking forward to it and hoping for better weather.


19
Nov 10

El Pescador Trip – Day 1 – Travel

The first day of my El Pescador trip was pretty much a normal day… woke up to the shouts of “DADDDDYYYYYY!”  These verbal explosions take place about 20 minutes too early, but it isn’t a bad way to wake up, really.

From there… store, swim lessons, store, cooked up my totally awesome and unhealthy Mac and Cheese (there’s bacon in it… 4 cheeses, butter, milk, flour, cream, garlic, onion and corn… damn good), Grandparents came in, Thanksgiving Feast for Pre-school… started getting a little anxious and finally the luggage into the car and a trip up to SFO (two hours early).  My daughter, dressed in her Princess costume from Halloween (she wears it about 2-3 hours a day) sacked out on the way up, so I didn’t get to say goodbye to her, which was the only part of the day that didn’t go to script, but at least she didn’t cry.

At the airport and I’ve heard so much about the stepped up security. What’s the fuss?  I was through in a matter of seconds, really.  No groping, sadly.  No body scanner.  I know it isn’t the universal experience, but it was really totally painless.

Now… the waiting.  Board a flight to Miami, arrive at 5:something, wait… flight to Belize City and then on to Ambergris to meet up with Shane and the good folks from El Pescador.

I’ll keep things as up-to-date as possible.

Need a rod carrier... old soccer sock and a couple of cam straps. Done.

Good times are here… the trip is here… let the adventures begin.

Before I even get out of the Miami Airport and on to Belize , I see my first bonefish… in fact, a whole school.

A good omen?

Met up with Chris Lewis in the airport… he saw me post the above pic on my facebook page… turns out he works here.  We got to chat about bonefish for a bit and the fishing in Biscayne Bay. Always nice to meet folks who take the time to follow the blog and who love bonefish like I do.


18
Nov 10

This trip brought to you by…

The whole blogging thing is interesting, for sure.  I don’t have ads and don’t cash a Bonefish on the Brain paycheck.  This started as a hobby and largely remains that (just one I am kind of ridiculously dedicated to).  However, the distance the blog has come in the last year is pretty obvious to me when I think about all the folks who have helped put some shape to this upcoming trip to Belize.

Thanks to El Pescador for hosting me for this trip.  We are still paying for guides and I’m still paying for a couple of flights, but the lodging… that was huge.

Thanks to Sage for the loaner Xi3 Seven and Ten weights.  Good sticks for Belize, me thinks.  Lori-Ann’s go to is the 7 wt. Xi3, so I’ll be in good company.

Double my pleasure... a 7 and 10 Sage Xi3

Thanks to Orvis for the loaner 8 wt. Helios and the line for the 10 weight. Steve offered and I couldn’t turn down a chance to see exactly how good these new Orvis rods are.

Orvis... nice stick.

Thanks to Nautilus for the loaner NV Ten-Eleven.  This is actually something anyone can do…  you can test drive a Nautilus, just check out the website.

Mr. and Mrs. Tarpon... I'm ready to see you now.

Thanks to Skinny Water Culture for two replacement sun masks (I somehow lost three in the last 6 months), a microfiber shirt and a new hat.

Skin cancer is bad... SWC is good.

Thanks to Patagonia for a sling pack for alllllll those flies I’ll be sporting, plus a sun mask and hat.

Flies go here.

Thanks to Off the Hook Fly Shop, where I bought most of the materials used in the flies I’ll be throwing.

That’s a lot of help… and if you look at my FFSI, you’ll see that I think the help you get has a lot to do with reducing suckiness… so, I have that going for me.

As someone recently wrote to me, “This is the most exciting bonefishing trip I’m not going on.”  I hope to have some good stories to share and hope to be posting from Belize and El Pescador, assuming I have the strength left after milking each day for every ounce of fishing possible.


17
Nov 10

Soundtrack

Music plays a role in my fishing trips.  When I go on a long trip I usually get some new music for the journey which becomes the soundtrack for that event.  My trip to Grand Bahama last year involved daily drives to the East End while I listened to music for the hour or so there and the hour or so back… and when I got back to the room… and while I was falling asleep.  I don’t listen actually out on the water… I would have missed my first fish in Grand Bahama… tailing fish behind me.  I heard it.  Good idea to have all your senses focused on what you are doing when you go all that way to fish.

The song that stood out in Grand Bahama was “Don’t Lose Yourself” by Laura Veirs.  I the line “on a rising tide” was one reason why, but also the theme of not losing myself.  I’m a stay at home dad and it is pretty easy to lose your identity when your day largely revolves around the needs of either your 3 year old or your wife.  The blog and fishing are ways I keep a foot in the non-childcare world. (The video is not fantastic, but I still love the song)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sjf0igrY9zs?fs=1&hl=en_US

This Belize trip is going to have its own sound track and one of the songs I’m digging in a big way is “Little Lion Man” by Mumford and Sons.  While I dig the song, I hope the line “I really fuqued it up this time” is not the prevailing theme of the trip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLJf9qJHR3E?fs=1&hl=en_US

The great thing about having a sound track for each trip is when I hear the song again, I feel, a little bit, like I’m back wherever it was I played the soundtrack… be it Grand Bahama or Montana or Oregon.  So… I’m loading up the iPhone with what will be, very soon, fishing music.


16
Nov 10

Interview with Orvis’s Steve Hemkens

Steve Hemkens is a pretty fishy guy.  He’s been at Orvis for about 5 years now as Product Design Specialist where he had a hand in crafting the Helios, one of the top rods in the industry today, and the Mirage reel, another top line product.  Steve talks about what makes the Helios worth it, about going to church on Crooked Island and about a 14 foot hammerhead. Read on.

Steve put up with a rather rambunctious interview with my daughter doing her best to interrupt things.  Steve, the oldest of 7 children, was a good sport about things.

I heard you were involved in the development of the Helios.  What was your role in that?

The short version of that which has become the company narrative is before I knew better, I had just relocated from St. Louis where I grew up and where I lived after college for 5 years and started in Jim Lapage‘s office, who runs the rod and tackle division here at Orvis and I said “Jim, we need to make the lightest fly rod in the world.”  He looked at me and kind of acknowledged it and picked up the phone and called Jim Logan who was the head the head of our manufacturing and runs our rod shop up in Manchester and he says “Jim, it’s Jim.  Start working on the lightest fly rod in the world.” and he hung up the phone.  Essentially, it started like that.  It was a collaborative process with me and Jim Lapage, Tim Rosenbauer and the guys in the rod shop and created this perfect storm of a great technology, looking at the way we design rods in terms of the mandrills and the lay-ups differently and looking really critically at the more nuanced parts in terms of the guides and the paint color and the reel seat and the tube and the name and everything just coalesced into a great success story and its been very humbling for me to be a part of a product introduction at a weird time in the world economy when discretionary incomes are down and you wouldn’t think an $800 fly rod would be a great time to be selling something like that, but it has captured people’s imaginations and really done a lot for validating Orvis as a fly fishing company in a lot of places where people didn’t take us seriously before.  It’s been pretty fun.

What is it that makes the Helios worth that $800 price tag?  I’m a lover of cheap things and when I look at an $800 fly rod I think “It may be a really awesome fly rod, but that’s two not totally awesome but serviceable fly rods.”  What justifies that $800 price tag?

The short answer is the rod technology.  We’ve got a proprietary, Defense level technology, it can’t be exported, we can’t share the manufacturer with peers in the industry or anything else and it’s the same thermo-plastic resin and fiber technology that the military uses on the rotor blades on the Apache helicopter. They were having problems in some of the campaigns with the rotor blades not lasting long enough and they were able to significantly improve performance and durability and save a whole lot of money by using this technology and fortunately we were able to establish a relationship there and start making rods and it enables us to use a lot less material and get the same or greater strength than what you’d get in Brand X out there in the market.  I’d like to think you’d be able to tell and that the difference between that and another rod out there is discernible enough that you’d be willing to step up to the plate and take the plunge.

Don't do this with your Helios.

So, on the technology front, you are saying that you could tell me, but you’d have to kill me?

Yeah, the guys with the black suburbans and the curly cue earphones would come and take me away.  Really, I’m not blowing smoke… it is real, proprietary technology that as far as we know, no one else is using.  We feel we’ve got something special and the market place has voted.

Your last trip was to Grand Bahama?

Yeah I was down there about two, two and a half weeks ago.  What a surprise. It was pretty awesome.  I was fortunate to fish with two kind of ledgends… Stalney Glinton, who is at North Riding Point Club and I fished one day, unguided, with David Pinder, who was at Deep Water Cay and he and his brothers Jeffery and Joseph do their own thing now, but he’s been doing it for, what, 30 years now… just to fish with one of those legends, like the partriarch of a bonefishing family, kind of like the Leydens on Andros, was just awesome.  It was a spectacular day of fishing.  I may never have a day of bonefishing that rivals that again in my life. Didn’t catch any big fish, but we were cruising back at the end and he looked at me and he said “How many fish do you think you hooked today” and I said “Ya know, I couldn’t even begin to think, but… dozens.”  It was pretty cool.

Bonefish, Orvisitized.

When you are out on the water a lot you see things that other people just don’t.  Is there something you’ve seen along those lines out there on the flats?

I go tarpon fishing in the pan handle every year with a good friend of mine who is a great guide.  We had a really great year this year with a lot of great fish.  We had a great stream of tarpon, all mature fish, 80-120 pound fish, all 4-5 feet long, big fish, in four feet of water, crystal clear, and they were swimming twice as fast as all the other strings of fish.  I threw at them and didn’t get a look and we just kind of shrugged it off and we were waiting for the next string when 10 seconds later a 12 or 14 foot hammer head came cruising up the beach.  He was just dogging that whole school of tarpon.  It was one of those experiences where you realize that a fish that is six feet long, even free swimming when he’s not vulnerable on the end of someone’s line, has something out there that wants to eat him.

Nice tarpon.

For bonefish, on this last trip I was on… just seeing a creature that is perfectly adapted to its environment when you have fish that are 6-7 pounds in water not even deep enough to cover their back and they are just wallowing around because they know none of their predators can get to them and yet as reckless as they can be when they are feeding they are still hyper aware and a shadow or a poorly cast fly can freak them out and they are just gone.  They anatomy and their colors and how they can change direction and disappear and how they can feed without being predated upon is really awesome.

Is there something beyond the fish that you associate with bonefishing?

For me, I’ve only bonefished in the Bahamas and in Florida, so I have a really strong association with the islands and the people.  I think about going to Crooked Island and staying there on Colonel Hill with one of my saltwater fishing buddies who is a youth minister back in Missouri who had just gotten back from a ministry in Africa, they are 7th Day Adventist so they always travel on Saturdays so they can go to church.  We had had a great week there. Great food. Great fishing.  A really special experience and they invited us to go to church.  It was fun to see the guys that pushed us around on the boats all dressed up in the band playing a toothpaste colored Stratocaster and the other guy is the minister.  Seeing them put their tithe in the plate, the money we had just tipped them and seeing my buddy get up there and preach and having this overweight white boy from St. Louis getting “Amens” from the Bahamian church goes was really awesome.  Those are memories I associate with bonefishing.  Also, on Andros, when you have someone that wants a pack of smokes so somebody knocks on somebody’s door and comes back a few minutes later walks out with a couple boxes of Marlboros.  It’s just a different place. It is a different life and a really inviting and cool culture they have down there and how they are all inextricably linked to the Ocean, be it as fisherman or lobsterman or tourism.  They get it.

There are so many places to head for bonefish.  Is there somewhere you are intrigued to check out?

I’m intrigued about Hawaii.  I’ve heard a lot of great stuff about fishing there, how technical it is, how big the fish are. So that is really interesting.  I’d love to go to Cuba to fish.  It just seems, having never been there, to be a complete cultural experience and relatively underexploited.  The Seychelles are captivating as a potential destination.  I really want to get back to Florida again because I’ve been so humbled fishing for bonefish there, just the amount of traffic and size of the fish, it continues to be a strong draw for me.

I often asked what rod and reel people are throwing… I bet I know what rod and reel you are throwing.

I am usually throwing a Helios.  On this last trip I was throwing a Hydros, which is the scaled down version of the Helios, it is the same blank without the recoil guides, it doesn’t have as nice a reel seat or tube so we can offer it for substantially less.  You don’t have to spend $800 to get Helios quality.  I was fishing that and the new Access rods, which we have worked on really hard over the past couple years which we are introducing right now. Those are $350 I think, for the saltwater version.  My favorite set up right now is the Helios 9 weight.  It is lighter than a lot of 7 weights out there on the market, so you feel like you are throwing a lighter rod, but when the wind picks up or you are throwing bigger flies it is a lot more effective.  If I had one rod to use it would be the Helios 9 weight and the Mirage reel, which was another one of my babies over the past couple of years.  I’m biased because I get to use the fruits of my labor when I go fishing, so I tend to stick pretty close to home.

Lip hooking is good, but you aren't doing it right.

(At this point in the interview, a plumber showed up and my 3 year old opened the door to this total stranger… seemed a good point to stop).

Thanks Steve for your time and for putting up with the hectic nature of the interview.  Steve is sending a Helios 8 weight for use on my Belize trip and a line for the 10 weight.  I look forward to getting them out on the flats of Belize.