29
Nov 10

Belize Report, Day 5 – The Grand Slam

We set our alarm for 5:00 AM so that we would be totally ready by the time Katchu, our guide, got to El Pescador with the boat.  All showered and fed and ready to go, we were looking forward to a day of more productive fishing than the previous day’s tarpon hunting.

We were going to be headed up along the Mexican/Belizean boarder where we hoped to stay north of the clouds.  The day looked promising as we headed out.  There were no other boats headed our direction as we made the 45 minute ride up the interior of the bay.  A good sign.

We got up to the park and paid our $5 USD entrance fee and in 5 more minutes we were set up, drifting along near the shore, looking for permit.  Katchu told us that the fishing for bonefish would be better in a couple hours and that at this time in the morning (about 7:50 or so) we should try to find some permit.  I was on deck again first and had the Sage Xi3 10 wt. rigged for permit, which in this case meant 15 pound tippet and a lightly weighted Christmas Island Special.

Along the shore were cruising a couple nice bonefish and Katchu positioned me to cast to them.  I was maybe too keenly aware that I had a 10 weight in my hand and I tried to have a delicate presentation and ended up totally under-powering a couple of casts.  It was such shocking casting that even Shane had to say “Those are probably the two worst casts I’ve ever seen you make.”  It was objectively true, so I couldn’t argue.  It was a case of dramatic over-thinking.

Luckily, things changed quickly when nervous water was spotted coming towards us… a school of permit.  I made the cast, right in the middle of the school, and just like their cousins, the Jacks, the permit parted and quickly regrouped.   I stripped fast and one fish became hell bent on eating.  He chased the fly with reckless abandon. Just like with Shane’s Jack the day before, I could see the fish, water sheeting over it’s head as it chased down the fly to eat.  It did.  I set the hook.  It was off to the races.

Permit. Not a world record, but a frigging permit!

Now, fishing for permit presents some interesting gear choices.  The fish I ended up landing was not really a fish you’d throw a 10 weight for… maybe it went 2-3 pounds, but out there on that same flat were permit going 20+.  The Orvis Helios 8 wt. probably would have been better, but, ya know… probably better to be over-gunned than under.

The permit was my first.  A milestone in its own right.

I'm ready for my close-up!

Shane was up and after being out of position for most of the other permit we saw, we headed to a little Caye riiiiiiiiight up against the Mexican boarder to look for bonefish.  It must be said that while we struggled with light and clouds, we could see the Mexican side bright and sunny all day.  It will give me extra reasons to root for the US when next we play soccer.

The fishing along this little caye was just fantastic.  There were about a million bonefish there, but also jacks, barracuda, snappers and permit.  We fished one little school of bonefish and if I missed the fish the drill was to cast out to line the school so they would retreat.  This they would do, totally according to the script, and then they’d come back in a couple minutes.  We could have sat on that school of bonefish all day.  We traded fish for a good amount of time and fun was had.

Point, cast, catch... Shane at work.

When Shane was on deck we saw, right mixed in with the bones, permit.  There were actually two schools of permit and there were some tense exchanges between Shane and Katchu about what cast was the best to make but in the end Shane made the cast that needed to be made and he was soon watching his line rip through the water, attached to a permit at the other end.  Then… the fish just came unbuttoned.  No reason… it just came off.

We fished down to the point of the Caye and got to do some wading.  Shane is at his most content when he gets to find his own fish, so this was a good stop for Shane.   It was a good stop for me too as I stuck a fair number of bonefish there myself.

Belizean Bone rocking the Skinny Water Culture mask.

We fished here until it was about time to head back and Katchu said “If we want to get you the Slam, we better go now.”  So, we went.  It took all of about 5 minutes to get to the canal and another 5 minutes to get to the little mangrove enclosed lagoon where we’d be looking for “baby” tarpon.

I had never caught a tarpon.  But, ya know, before that morning I had never caught a permit either.  I had hooked a tarpon (the day before) and made quick work of botching the job, so… I was glad to hear “baby tarpon.”  They sounded maybe a bit easier.

Just on the other side of this tunnel, I botched TWO tarpon eats.

Newsflash… the babies are not really babies… they are more like young-adults full of testosterone and anger.  The first fish I cast to (which was totally not small, by the way) attacked the fly like my wife going after a pair of comfortable black high-heels… like me after bacon… it was savage.  I felt totally unprepared.  Actually, I WAS unprepared and quickly botched it.  I then botched the follow-up.

We retreated further into the mangroves and I found myself in a mangrove-lined dead-end mini-lagoon with a tarpon at the other end and my grand slam on the line.  An off-shoulder backcast was called for and delivered.  The fish showed some real psychological issues as it threw itself at the fly and I nearly had to seek immediate psychological help after I botched THAT attempt.  The fish, however, was still looking for the fly after I had just pulled it from its mouth and two more strips and the fish ate.  I didn’t botch this one. I didn’t give an inch.  I bowed to the fish when it jumped NINE FRIGGING FEET in the air.

There it is. Amazing.

The fish was in.  The grand slam was in the bag.  I was amazed.  A Grand Slam that featured my first ever permit and my first ever tarpon.  This sort of thing just doesn’t happen.  But it did.  What an amazing day.

Thanks for being there Tarpon.

One of the best beers I've ever had. A Grand Slam Beer.


28
Nov 10

Skinny Water Culture: Monster Kayak Bonefish!

As I waited at the Miami Airport to get to Belize, I posted a picture from Facebook showing the bonefish sculptures there.  I got a reply that went “Hey, I work there, where are you?”  I ended up meeting and talking briefly with Chris, who immediately noticed my Skinny Water Culture hat.

Today, I looked on the Skinny Water Culture blog, and who is it but Chris with about a 12 pound bonefish.  Fantastic!  Way to go Chris!

I thought to myself, jeez…what am I going to do when I see a bonefish. Out of the corner of my eye I saw the unmistakable, unfamiliar sight of a tail pop up.

via Skinny Water Culture: Monster Kayak Bonefish!.


27
Nov 10

Rod Review – Sage Xi3

I was fortunate enough to get a couple of loaner roads from Sage for my trip to Belize.  It felt a little like Christmas when the package with two new Xi3’s showed up.  I had a 7 wt. and a 10 wt. which armed me for everything I really needed in Belize.

The 7 wt. was used most and was an especially good rod for hunting Belizean bonefish, which tend to run a bit smaller in size than Bahamian bones.  With the 7 wt., I up-lined to an 8 weight line, which cast very, very well at the short distances that you tend to be fishing when wading for bonefish.  I am fast becoming a fan of up-lining when you know the distances are going to be short.  These fast, modern rods have difficulty loading on shorter casts, say 40′ or under.

Xi3 - a great stick.

I cast the 10 for permit and for tarpon and was happy with how the Xi3 did when delivering some long casts with some bigger flies.  The 10 weight I actually cast with a 10 weight line (a Wonderline provided by Orvis, which did great service as well).   The 10 weight didn’t feel heavy and it had plenty of power.  When I hooked into that big Jack that rod bent to the cork, which was fun to watch.

The Xi3 has a rather major price-tag, which is really the only drawback of the rod.  You can feel the quality in the stick and I’d love to bring one out on the flats again at some point.  When I finally move up to a top tier rod, the Xi3 will certainly be in the running.


25
Nov 10

Belize Day Three – The Lagoon

The weather was set to continue being crappy and that didn’t seem like a good day to go out with a guide, so we decided this would be our DIY day.  El Pescador is on the beach, but in the back, it has a small dock that leads to a lagoon… in the lagoon are bonefish.  Instead of walking the beach, we set out by paddle.  El Pescador has a rough map with some spots marked and we used that as a starting point to get to the fish.

Stormy skies and the red canoe

The first shore we patrolled was devoid of anything resembling a bonefish, so we moved on.  Shane moved further down the beach and I stayed closer.  Twenty minutes on I saw a bonefish cruising out of some flooded mangroves.  I threw a brown gotcha in a #8 and the fish saw it and charged it.  I set, the fish was hooked and it started its run.  I tried to clear the line, but… well… the line still jumped up and wrapped around my hand. I was now 0/1.  Rumor has it that I dropped a couple of f-bombs at this point in the trip, but those reports are unconfirmed.  About 5 minutes later and Shane was hooked up… first fish of the trip was in the books.

The seal breaker.

One more move and my rod was finally bent all the way to conclusion.

Get bent.

Well, isn't (s)he cute?

Turns out what you’ve heard about Belize bonefish is largely true… which is they aren’t very large.  This little guy was about the size we caught.  We did see a few bigger fish and even caught some (mostly Shane), but there are a lot of smaller fish here.  They are still very, very fun and it does present an opportunity to down-size on your rod selection.  You could easily get away with a six and, ya know… maybe even a 5.  That means if you want to get into bonefishing and don’t want to go out and buy a new rod for one trip, you could grab your trout gear and head to Belize.  Just say’n.

Out in the lagoon for the rest of the trip we had a simple rule… before you dip into the cooler for a beer, you have to land a fish.  So, this was a nice beer.

Mmmm... good.

Belikin is the beer of Belize and we drank a fair bit of it… 58 of them according to the bar tab.  Here’s the thing about Belikin… they are a LIE.  The bottle is heavy… very heavy… the weight of each bottle is roughly 95% glass and 5% beer.  They are about 2 ounces each… or 9.6 ounces as it turns out.  You can grab and empty bottle and the weight makes you think it is full… but it isn’t.  That is a tragedy.  When you have a Belikin you are largely holding glass.  Someone said when you buy a Belikin you also buy a weapon… and I can see that.  In my totally imagined feud between Kalik and Belikin, I’m going to raise the Kalik on sheer volume.  Hope that doesn’t offend anyone, but really… a beer should be AT LEAST 12 ounces… AT LEAST.

I only managed a couple of fish that day, Shane had about 7, which was a sign that things were as they should be.  Shane’s a much better angler than I am since he’s a guide on the water about 200 days a year and he has about 350 days of bonefishing under his belt.

It seemed appropriate with it raining that hard... to have a beer.

The rain came and went… and then came again.  Our paddle back to El Pescador was a wet and windy one.  Just as we got to the mangrove chute we’d take to get to the dock Shane was mentioning that this particular environment looked ideal for baby tarpon.  Then I saw one roll.  So, we fished for some very small baby tarpon for a few minutes.  I cast from the canoe while Shane stood in the back of the canoe trying to locate the fish.  I had one eat, but didn’t hook it.

When we got back the light was failing and we were both wetter than seemed possible.  It had been a challenging day, but we had made it work.  The best time to go fishing, after all, isn’t when the weather is perfect.  The best time to go fishing is when you can.

wet, wet, wet

We made the right call and had a fun day under the Belizean clouds.

Small? Sure. Pretty? You bet.

The third day of the trip and the second day in Belize were done.  Dinner was fantastic… Lobster and Chicken Parmesan.   They treat you right at El Pescador.

The next day was going to be with a guide and a trip to the tarpon flats.


24
Nov 10

OK… Belize Report, Day 2

I’m back from Belize now… it was 55 in the house when I got home.  I miss Belize already, but I look forward to seeing my wife and daughter again (which I’ll do on Friday).  I’m going to pick up reporting on the days of the trip, starting with Day 2.

Day 2 started out in Miami and from there on to Belize City and from there to Ambergris and El Pescador.

As we descended into Belize City my heart kind of sank a bit.  There was a lot of rain on the ground and buckets still falling.  The puddle jumper from Belize City to Ambergris was a cool flight, but still the rain was coming down.  Lori-Ann met Shane and I at the dock for the ride to El Pescador.

After we got our room, we got ready to hit the beach in the rain in search of tails.  We found them (the first fish spotted was actually right when we got to El Pescador… right by the dock… crazy). The turtle grass was so thick it was tough to get flies to the fish and we ended our first actual day there without a fish to our name, but at least we had gotten out there and paid some rain soaked dues.

We were scheduled to go out with guide Katchu the next day, but decided to push that off for a day to let the weather settle.  We’d day the canoe out in the lagoon system behind El Pescador for the second day there.

Dinner was great and we met the other anglers and divers staying at the lodge.  Everyone got on well and we were looking forward to the next day, despite a less that totally awesome weather forecast.

Stay Tuned for Day 3.


19
Nov 10

El Pescador Trip – Day 1 – Travel

The first day of my El Pescador trip was pretty much a normal day… woke up to the shouts of “DADDDDYYYYYY!”  These verbal explosions take place about 20 minutes too early, but it isn’t a bad way to wake up, really.

From there… store, swim lessons, store, cooked up my totally awesome and unhealthy Mac and Cheese (there’s bacon in it… 4 cheeses, butter, milk, flour, cream, garlic, onion and corn… damn good), Grandparents came in, Thanksgiving Feast for Pre-school… started getting a little anxious and finally the luggage into the car and a trip up to SFO (two hours early).  My daughter, dressed in her Princess costume from Halloween (she wears it about 2-3 hours a day) sacked out on the way up, so I didn’t get to say goodbye to her, which was the only part of the day that didn’t go to script, but at least she didn’t cry.

At the airport and I’ve heard so much about the stepped up security. What’s the fuss?  I was through in a matter of seconds, really.  No groping, sadly.  No body scanner.  I know it isn’t the universal experience, but it was really totally painless.

Now… the waiting.  Board a flight to Miami, arrive at 5:something, wait… flight to Belize City and then on to Ambergris to meet up with Shane and the good folks from El Pescador.

I’ll keep things as up-to-date as possible.

Need a rod carrier... old soccer sock and a couple of cam straps. Done.

Good times are here… the trip is here… let the adventures begin.

Before I even get out of the Miami Airport and on to Belize , I see my first bonefish… in fact, a whole school.

A good omen?

Met up with Chris Lewis in the airport… he saw me post the above pic on my facebook page… turns out he works here.  We got to chat about bonefish for a bit and the fishing in Biscayne Bay. Always nice to meet folks who take the time to follow the blog and who love bonefish like I do.


17
Nov 10

Soundtrack

Music plays a role in my fishing trips.  When I go on a long trip I usually get some new music for the journey which becomes the soundtrack for that event.  My trip to Grand Bahama last year involved daily drives to the East End while I listened to music for the hour or so there and the hour or so back… and when I got back to the room… and while I was falling asleep.  I don’t listen actually out on the water… I would have missed my first fish in Grand Bahama… tailing fish behind me.  I heard it.  Good idea to have all your senses focused on what you are doing when you go all that way to fish.

The song that stood out in Grand Bahama was “Don’t Lose Yourself” by Laura Veirs.  I the line “on a rising tide” was one reason why, but also the theme of not losing myself.  I’m a stay at home dad and it is pretty easy to lose your identity when your day largely revolves around the needs of either your 3 year old or your wife.  The blog and fishing are ways I keep a foot in the non-childcare world. (The video is not fantastic, but I still love the song)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sjf0igrY9zs?fs=1&hl=en_US

This Belize trip is going to have its own sound track and one of the songs I’m digging in a big way is “Little Lion Man” by Mumford and Sons.  While I dig the song, I hope the line “I really fuqued it up this time” is not the prevailing theme of the trip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLJf9qJHR3E?fs=1&hl=en_US

The great thing about having a sound track for each trip is when I hear the song again, I feel, a little bit, like I’m back wherever it was I played the soundtrack… be it Grand Bahama or Montana or Oregon.  So… I’m loading up the iPhone with what will be, very soon, fishing music.


14
Nov 10

So… if you have a yacht…

If you find yourself with a yacht and you are going to be cruising around the Bahamas and you, ya know, want to go bonefishing, you can get a Skate from Hell’s Bay and just toss it up on deck (carefully, and if there are two of you).

Now… I doubt I’m going to find myself in this particular scenario, but if I did (and I mean in real life, not my very active fantasy life), I very well might get a Skate and pole around some no-name bit of Bahamian goodness.  Doesn’t that sound more awesome than you really have a right to expect?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjUQavWEo7U?fs=1&hl=en_US


12
Nov 10

Bones in the Bahamas – YouTube

A little YouTube bonefishing hunt turned up this little video, newly added to interwebs.  This is in the Bahamas somewhere.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtUhxXqi5Io?fs=1&hl=en_US


11
Nov 10

How to get your first bonefish

If you are looking to get into your first bonefish, I have a way you can do it for not much scratch (ya know, relatively speaking).

Step 1. Go to Cheap Caribbean and look at either Nassau or Grand Bahama.

Why?  Well, you can get package deals, including air fare for as low as $300 a person.  Figure it usually costs $350 for air, and you can see the value here.  You might not get the most super awesome hotel, but you’ll get to the Bahamas cheap.  Sure, you can get to Miami pretty cheap too, but the fishing there is tougher and if you are starting out, it is good to have some success on your first outing… ya know… encouragement.

Step 2. Get one day with a guide.

Why?  If you are starting out, it can be really hard to find your own fish.  Bonefish have their own rhythms and their own environment, so, get a guide to smooth out the learning curve a bit.

  • In Grand Bahama, I recommend Captain Perry (although his website is down as I write this, he is still booking trips and you can call him at (242) 353-3301) who I used and who was just a great guide and a good person.
  • In Nassau, which is overall a bit less bonefishy than Grand Bahama, there are still options where the guide can put you in a skiff and get you to some fish.  Aaron Bain with Secret Soul gets some good reviews.

Now,  a day of guiding is going to set you back a pretty penny… about $400, plus tip, but really, you want to catch some fish when you go all that way, so you really should look into it.  It isn’t like fishing the Madison where you know the place is lousy with fish.  If you have DIY inclinations, you can go out on your own for the rest of your trip, like I’ve done a couple times.

Nassau and Grand Bahama are family friendly locations and you could make it a family trip, making it even more doable for the family-bound angler.

There… that’s the recipe.  If you fish for steelhead or large trout, you probably have something serviceable in terms of gear.  A 7 weight will work for bonefish and you can even get away with a 6 (ask Rich French).  You may need a new line and you might… might need a new reel, but you can get a reel that will work for under $200.

As I read in This is Fly long ago, and I’m paraphrasing here, “bonefishing shows up on a lot more wish lists than obituaries,” so go out there and get after them.

My first bonefish - go get at 'em